The Docks
"Mention Leith and the memories are stirred of Leith Walk, the Kirkgate and Junction Road (no such name other than being the colloquial one for Great Junction Street). Yet the "docks" are as much part and parcel of Leith as any other place. It was around the docks that Leith grew and prospered. Ironically, although the docks have now receded in importance seawise, the prosperity is now based upon the redevelopment of the whole area with the warehouses being converted into high amenity flats and restaurants. Vacant lots are being much sought after for building upon. Evidently the `in` place now."
The very word docks is evocative of a vibrant Leith of my early life. They were the heart and soul of the community. They provided employment for many Leithers either directly on the wharves or in transport to and from them. Not that the employment was continuous, for it was based on the law of supply and demand. No ships in, then no work was available. Despite this, the job of a docker was jealously guarded. It ran in families. Very few men outside these families could ever hope to secure one. It was a closed shop.
No matter where we stayed in Leith, we must all have visited the docks at some time or another. For myself, I was born within a stones throw, okay maybe a couple of stones, of the dock gates at the West Pier. During my early years the docks were out of bounds due to war time restrictions, but these were relaxed in 1946.
Despite this, we were not allowed in unless accompanied by an adult, this being enforced by the presence of policemen at all the dock entrances. If my memory is correct, there were five entrances in total. These were - Bath Street, Constitution Street, The Shore, West Pier, and Portland Place.
The Bath Street gate led directly to the Edinburgh Dock. Constitution Street gate was the main entrance for both the Albert Dock and the Edinburgh Dock.
The Shore entrance was the one used if the Imperial Dock was your destination. This gate was also in close proximity to the steel span bridge that crossed the river connecting the old dock system with the newer one.
The West Pier gate served the Victoria Dock, the two Old Docks, and the shipyards. Portland Place opened onto the West Old Dock.
Having said all this, all the docks were linked by a network of roads and bridges. Pedestrians also had the advantage of foot ways across the tops of the lock gates. However, this was only available during the times the tide was out. The lock gates were swung open when the tide was on the turn in order to restore the high water level in the docks. Obviously the level had gone down when ships were leaving port and the lock system was being utilised.
I just loved strolling down to the docks, especially on a Sunday. If I had the time I would attempt to cover the whole area.
The Old Docks
Beginning at the West Pier gate, I would cross the bridge that spanned the narrow strait connecting both the old docks, West and East. Permanentlly moored at the west end of the Old West Dock were the two hulks that were known to Leithers as `The Dolphin` and `The Claverhouse`. The former served as a training ship for seagoing catering staff for the merchant navy. It was part of the Leith Nautical College. The other ship had Royal Naval connections.
The East Old Dock was always empty as far as my recollections go.
Just to the north of this dock was the Victoria Dock. This was used quite extensively by the ships that made up the Fishery Protection Fleet. Henry Robbs also used this dock to moor their smaller ships, viz, tugs, for their fitting out after launching. They were too small to lie alongside the pier at the mercy of the tides. At ebb tide they would have dropped way below the level of the gangway from the pierside.
Leaving the Victoria behind I would proceed towards the Victoria Pier passing the yards of Robbs on my left. Often or not a ship of theirs would be lying alongside the finishing berth at the Pier.
The North of Scotland Steamship Co. had their berths nearby. St Magnus, St Clair, and St Clement were some of the well known ships of theirs that used it.
Across the main tidal water lay the berths of the Edinburgh and London Steamship Co. Using the ships, London Merchant, Edinburgh Merchant, Belravock, and Belhaven, the shipping line maintained a four sailing each way weekly schedule between Leith and London.
The New Docks
I would approach the new docks by way of the steel span rail/road/pedestrian bridge that crossed the Water of Leith. From this bridge you could see the old Salveson`s whaling factory ship, `The Fairfree` that seemed to have lain alongside the quayside for years. Today it has long gone, but a relic of the whaling era still lies near the spot, a harpoon gun.
If my luck was in, the lock gates would be closed and a direct approach could be made to the Imperial Dock without having to go the long way round. This was the dock that held most fascination for me. It was the largest of the group and the locking system allowed better access for the larger ships.
Here the vessels of the Cairn Line - Cairndhu, Cairngowan, and the older Cairnavon, Cairnvalona, and Cairnesk would off load firstly their deck cargo of Canadian timber then their holds of grain. These ships regularly plied between Montreal and Leith. I had the pleasure of returning to Leith on the Cairndhu as a passenger when I returned from Canada in 1956. Attached here is a photograph of the event albeit it was taken in mid Atlantic.
Other timber ships emanated from Scandinavia.
The Currie Line of Leith used this dock extensively. Gothland, Zealand, Zetland brought in the dairy products from Denmark. Another Leith Co. George Gibson & Co did likewise with trade mainly to the Low Countries
Occasionally the Ben Line had ships use the port. Their main Forth port was Grangemouth but a couple of their smaller vessels such as the Ben Ledi, and the Ben Vannoch would pay a visit. I always was proud to see the name Leith painted on their sterns as their port of registration. I think they are still registered here if I could be certain.
As well as these, there were many other vessels from the four corners of the world. This was what made the Imperial Dock my favourite.
Around the dock sides, were situated many cranes. One of the most prominent was situated on the north side of the dock. It was capable of very heavy lifts. This crane was used by Henry Robbs to install ships` main engines. Not far from this were the coal hoists for loading one of Scotland`s main exports. This was also used for bunkering the coal fired burners that were still in existence in the 50s.
The Imperial Dock also boasted the largest dry dock in the East of Scotland.
Although not using the main dock, the Icelandic liner, Gulfoss was a weekly visitor to Leith as well as the German ship the Adler.
The other two main docks, led off from the Imperial. The Albert Dock catered for various small ships whilst the Edinburgh Dock was the main outlet for ships carrying fertiliser products. The Scottish Agricultural Industries (SAI) was situated at this dock.
Henry Robb`s ship repair side of the business used this dock for numerous vessels they were contracted to carry out long-term maintenance on. One of the biggest contracts was on Royal Fleet Auxilliary (RFA) ships. These included Fort Dunvegan, Fort Beauharnois, and Fort Langley.
I have already recorded elsewhere that the old Martello Tower was nearby the Imperial Dock. This was a favourite spot for our swimming sessions.
The management of the docks was the responsibility of the Leith Dock Commission, now superceded by the Forth Ports Authority. Their staff, dressed in their distinctive black tunic and trousers with peaked cap, had the responsibility of opening and shutting the lock gates. This was a simple enough procedure with the use of hydraulics. However the lock gate at the Alexandra dry dock was not so straightforward. It consisted of a giant pontoon that was flooded and emptied as required. It would be floated into the closing position then filled with water to allow it to sink into the sealing position. Conversely, it would be pumped out allowing it to surface and float clear of the entrance. I used to love watching this being done.
Before concluding, I must mention the workhorses of the docks. These were the three tugs that were so important in manoeuvering the large ships in from the Roads of Leith and likewise outward bound. The tugs were, the Oxcar, Inchgarvie and the Inchmickry. They seemed to have the run of the docks. You never knew where you would find them. They were operated by the Nicholson family.
Today, although there are still ships using the facilities, the excitement and thrill of yester years is no more.
